Tempeljagd mit Extras

Der Hinduismus kennt viele Götter. Folglich gibt es auch sehr viele Tempel, in denen sie verehrt werden. Mit Sanja aus dem Compound habe ich mir vorgenommen, nach und nach in die vielfältige Welt der Tempel einzutauchen. Also starteten wir diese Woche unseren ersten Ausflug als Tempeljägerinnen.

Eine ganz besondere Gebetsstätte befindet sich mitten in Bangalore, unscheinbar in den engen Gassen des früheren Dorfes Sampangiram Nagar, das von der Mega-City einverleibt wurde: der Snake Temple. In dieser Gegend gab es früher sehr viele Schlangen, die jedoch vertrieben wurden, als das Viertel urbanisiert wurde. Um die Götter zu besänftigen, die darüber erzürnt waren, wie die Menschen mit den Schlangen umgingen, wurde der Snake Temple errichtet. Wenn man als Besucher auf den Tempel zugeht, fällt als erstes ein riesiger Baum ins Auge: der Bodhi-Baum, ein heiliger Baum im Hinduismus. Überall wo in Indien dieser Baum wächst, ist auch ein kleiner Tempel oder mindestens ein Schrein zu finden, in dem eine Gottheit verehrt wird. Daher war das der ideale Ort für die Schlangenbeschwörung! Unter dem Baum und daneben ist alles voller Schlangenstelen, große und kleine, alte und neuere, bemalte und unbemalte, mit und ohne Blumenschmuck … Sehr beeindruckend! Der Tempel ist in keinem Reiseführer aufgeführt, man muss schon wissen, dass er sich da befindet, wo er sich befindet. Eine Art Geheimtipp für Tempeljäger!

Der Bodhi-Baum ist ein heiliger Baum im Hinduismus.

Der eigentliche Tempel befindet sich linker Hand neben den Schlangen und ist nichts Besonderes. Er wird bewacht von einer steinalten Dame, die regungslos in ihrem Stuhl sitzt und aufpasst, dass das Böse draußen bleibt. In der Zeit, als wir da waren, hat sie sich kein bisschen bewegt.

Gleich hinter den Schlangen nahmen wir in einer Hütte ein typisch indisches Frühstück zu uns: Dosa. Weil es schon Mittag war und ich lieber süß als salzig frühstücke, geht das fast schon als Lunch durch. Für mich war es mein erstes authentisches Dosa außerhalb einer Mall oder eines Speiserestaurants. Sanja fragte: „Traust du dich, das zu essen oder hast du Angst, dir was zu holen?“ Ob ich mich traue? Was ne Frage! Steht ja quasi auch wieder „neu“ drauf und muss deshalb ausprobiert werden. Und was soll schon groß passieren, waren ja schließlich auch viele Inder im Raum, die das gegessen haben…

Sanja mit Sohn Martin

 

Dosa ist eine Art dünner, knuspriger Pfannkuchen, der auf einer gusseisernen Platte gebacken wird. Serviert wird es auf einem Bananenblatt mit Sambar – eine Linsen-Tamarinden-Sauce – und Chutney. Wir wählten Dosa Masala, das mit einer würzigen Kartoffelpampe gefüllt ist. Das Essen kommt wie bei den Hochzeiten aus dem Eimer, wer will, kriegt Nachschlag und gegessen wird mit der rechten Hand. Also halt wieder eine Riesensauerei! Es war – sehr, sehr lecker und weniger scharf, als ich das allein unter Indern erwartet hätte.

Hier geht`s zum Frühstück.

 

Der Dosa-Bäcker in Aktion

 

So gestärkt führte unsere Tour zu einem weiteren Geheimtipp. Fußläufig zum Snake Temple befindet sich – völlig unscheinbar in einem Hinterhaus und von außen schier nicht zu erkennen – eine Seidenweberei. Im Erdgeschoss lärmen die Webstühle und im oberen Stock quellen die Schränke über vor lauter Seidenstoffen. Auch auf dem Boden, wo man hinschaut, Seide. Sanja war schon mal da und zeigte mir die Berge von bunten Stoffen. Ich war regelrecht geflasht angesichts dieser vielen Farben. Wir hatten echt die Qual der Wahl.

Hier sitzt einer auf einem Berg von Stoffen.

 

Eigentlich sind es Stoffe für Saris, aber sie eignen sich bestens für Bezüge aller Art, für Vorhänge, Kleider, Blusen … Man muss es halt selber nähen oder von einem Schneider bearbeiten lassen. Es dürfte in Indien kein Problem sein, einen günstigen Dienstleister zu finden, der diese zauberhaften Materialien weiterverarbeitet.

Ein indischer Weber bei der Arbeit

 

Lochkarten geben die Stoffmuster vor.

 

Die Weberei ist kein hochmoderner Betrieb, sondern wird sehr altmodisch betrieben. Zwar nicht in reiner Handarbeit, aber doch noch mit Lochkarten, die sich an der Decke des Raumes befinden und die die Muster vorgeben. An jedem Webstuhl steht ein Arbeiter, der das Gerät überwacht. Es ist ganz erstaunlich, dass es einen solchen Betrieb im 21. Jahrhundert mitten in einer Millionenstadt noch gibt. Aber das ist halt Indien, modern und rückständig zugleich, Mittelalter und Zukunft vereint.

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